More Photos from the Olympic Trek

ALL Sunday July 17th, after a night of packing, re-packing, checking and fitful rest, we arrived at ATL airport at about 6:00am. As agreed, we all met under the big bronze dinosaur in the rotunda. Boys and husbands said farewell to loved ones and the adventure began with a long voyage. 14 of us travelled on a Delta 757 destined for Seattle Tacoma (SEA-TAC), Washington, airport. Mike, Scott, Tom W, and his boys were already in Seattle. The trip took about five hours. Designated drivers were dispatched to recover the vans and soon we were bound for the city of Port Angeles, on the north cost of the Olympic Peninsula, to collect our hiking permits. We hit the road for Forks (yes, this is the city featured in the vampire Twilight series) and on up the 18 mile road to the Hoh River Trail Visitor Center. The weather was threatening and daylight was waning as we separated into two crews. There were a few final instructions, and Bravo lead out first, having a 5 mile hike to Five Mile Camp. ALPHA CREW had a wet walk to the first campsite, Mt. Tom Creek. We all thought our surroundings made us feel like we were on the set of Jurassic Park, or had stepped back in time to dinosaur days. Arrived to see that someone was camped in the middle of our reserved group campsite. We were too tired to care, so set up where we could. BRAVO CREW Within minutes on the trial we came upon an elk and its yearling. We pushed them off the trial and moved ahead into an increasing rain. We slogged through wet and muddy trail conditions. Our exhausted crew arrived in camp at about 9pm. Adding to an already poor mood, awake for 20 hours, we made the decision not to make food due to the late hour and threat of bears. Gear was separated into bear smell-ables (those items needing to be hoisted up onto a 20 foot high wire into a sack or "bear-bag" to prevent bears from becoming tempted by the smells), tents were set and sleep was welcomed.

Monday July 18th ALPHA CREW Awoke to a beautiful morning and ate breakfast on the river bed. Hiked to our next site at Olympic Guard Station. Met briefly with the Ranger. Had a chance to let some of our gear dry out. After camp was set, we had a great game of Trivial Pursuit that had been packed in by Wesley W. All would later agree this was our favorite campsite. BRAVO CREW had a wonderful morning. Smokey looking clouds were rising from spruce trees as the sun heated the wet ground. The light of the sun did not immediately fall upon our camp; instead it illuminated a vast hillside of green trees. I arose at 5am and watched as the morning unfolded a reverse spectrum of colors ending with the bright sunrise. Coffee and the first of the freeze-dried meals were cooked. It was at this point that the first, and nearly show-stopping, oversight was uncovered in the provision of crew gear. We had no toothpaste! Crew gear was my responsibility, and I felt just awful. As our minds wandered to the eventual conclusion of this discovery, bad breath, tooth decay, abscess, death, we realized that we would meet the Alpha crew at Glacier Garden in a few days, and we could make it until then. We ate our meals and bagged our gear for the next leg of the trip, a 6 mile hike to Lewis Meadow. We set out. Almost immediately, we were met with crossing a stream on a fallen tree bridge, the first and most difficult of several challenges. Everyone passed this test, with Jacob making a second lap just for good measure. The Hoh River Trail passes through a forest that receives over 180 inches of rain per year. This is a true rain forest and as such the trees are massive, the ferns are massive and the slug and centipede are massive! On the previous day Tom W had described a centipede that excretes cyanide from its feet (producing an almond foot print on your hands). We saw several huge Banana Slugs and a non-indigenous Black Slug with spears on its back. Shortly after lunch we arrived at Lewis Meadow. This camp was divided into a 5 acre meadow and a spit of land along the river. We choose the spit, moved west, and divided into two groups with a fire pit/eating area between the groups. A few folks decided to wipe the salt and sweat from their bodies with ice cold river water, very refreshing. The sky was clear and we set up camp and allowed our socks and gear to dry in the warm sun. As the shadows stretched eastward a chance exploration by Tyler brought the entire crew to the western end of the split to an area of trees and ground covered in a mossy blanket next to a tumbled rock island (later dubbed Coco-Puff Island because of all the elk poop). We crossed onto this rocky island to explore. In order to get to Coco-Puff Island we had to cross a small stream about 12-18" deep. This was our first real contact with the river water and a "He-Man" contest between Tyler and Harry ended in a draw to see who could endure the cold water the longest. Both had pink feet for hours after. We cooked and ate diner, played cards, and hit the rack by 7:30pm.

Tuesday July 19th ALPHA CREW A mule deer doe and 2 fawns walk right thru our campsite as we are breaking camp. We hike to Elk Lake and get things setup just before a steady drizzle sets in. BRAVO CREW camp dawned clear and dry with another dazzling display of fiery colors and our first clear view of the sharp peaks surrounding Mount Olympus. This day's trek would prove to be the most challenging of the entire trip, 7 miles of hiking with an elevation gain of 3400 feet. We hit the trial heading east under watchful navigation provided for the remainder of the trip by Ryan. Along the trail we came upon the Olympus Ranger Station. We took a packs-off break to speak for a while with a young Ranger from Pennsylvania named Matt. He gave us some advice on the upcoming challenges and hazards. We bid Matt farewell, continued on, and soon arrived at the High-Hoh Bridge where we enjoyed our second pack-off break and lunch. The High-Hoh Bridge is a 5 foot wide by 100 foot long steel structure with wooden slat treads. Amazingly, it is located almost 400 feet above the river. This fact can be checked by spitting and counting the number of seconds for the spit to reach the river, 5 seconds (distance = x + v0t + 1/2gt^2). Nathan and Noah both independently checked the accuracy of the time and calculation. With the break completed, we began the difficult climb up to Elk Lake Camp. Most of the elevation on the Hoh River Trail occurs after the High Hoh Bridge. Just before arriving at Elk Lake we crossed a huge and wonderful water fall where we all made fresh water and rested for a while. Within 200 yards we were looking at Elk Lake. The lake is filled with snow melt from the Blue Glacier and is held in a tranquil dense forest of moss covered trees. Above the lake the environment changed quickly. We passed numerous areas where the winter snow above had caused devastating avalanches that wiped out trees 4 or 5 feet in diameter and cleared numerous 100-yard wide meadows of trees. As we rose up, the muddy trail gave way to razor sharp broken rock. Falling on the trail here assured a bloody knee or hand. As we carefully ascended further the trail wound around hills into a creepy misty fog that blanked everything. The kind of cold fog that comes out of your refrigerator in Summer. Soon we faced a river challenge that required creative rock scrabbling to clear. Around the next bend it looked like the trail just ended into the fog with no place to go. Avalanches formed each of these. Upon further investigation, the trail made a sharp turn to cross a stream and a mushy romp over water soaked rocks. Then came the mother of all challenges... the vaunted "fourth avalanche chute". This was so difficult; it occupied its own special space in the Hoh River Trail Report for months. As we approached this chute the trail again seemed to end in the fog, but this time upon closer inspection the trail continued only after dropping down a rockslide 100 feet deep and then a 200 yard crossing of a questionable looking ice field bridging over the river below. This was VERY SCARY. The icy cold breeze created clouds of vapor as it slid down the chute. After getting everyone into warm clothes, we gathered the courage to pass the challenge. Within 60 minutes we completed this task and headed toward Glacier Meadow Camp over increasingly deep snow covered trails until there was no ground visible by the time we reached the camp. The first vision of Glacier Meadow Camp was a sign and rescue shelter. We scoped out the camp, identified where the ice bridge (areas where the water running below washes out the packed snow to form a weak spot that may break through) hazards were and selected camp sights. Within minutes tents were going up and we had moved in. Dinner was a treat as the sun poked in and out for a while and then finally surrendered into a steady misty rain for the evening. We surveyed the abandoned Ranger station, made water, and went to bed.

Wednesday, July 20th ALPHA CREW Wednesday July 20th- Awoke at 04:30 for the trek to Glacier Meadow. Experienced the challenge of "the ladder" and avalanche chutes. Hiked up the glacier and experienced "glissading", some on purpose, others accidently. Spent that night on the glacier "for the experience". Most agreed that the "experience" was wet, cold, and sleepless. BRAVO CREW Mohan and I woke at 7am to hike down to meet Alpha crew to help them across the difficult fourth avalanche chute. We met up with them before they reached the chute. After the expected reaction upon first seeing the challenges, the Alpha team's first few members crossed and were sent on to wake up the Bravo team and ready them to assemble for assent to the Blue Glacier. At 9am the crews where together again with all gear ready for the assent. We reached the trail through a thick forest and very deep snow. After a few ice bridge break troughs’, we learned to identify the hazards, thanks in part to Matthew and Wesley. We finally left the trees behind, reached the glacier, and began to climb. At this point we decided on a safe return time of 2pm. The slope was as impressive as any black diamond ski trail (only going the other way). The sun began to shine as we reached a rocky "base-camp" of the lateral moraine on the far side of the Blue Glacier. We assembled to rope and crampon up for the next phase of the climb, up onto the Snow Dome. With a little help from bootlaces, zip-ties and duct-tape, we managed to get every crampon to stick. We strapped on Swiss Seats, and Steve carefully tied teams together and reviewed safety and arrest (how to stop when sliding on ice) procedures. Four lines of climbers ascended up over the edge of the lateral for a look onto the Snow Dome with the West Peak (summit) to the left, and Panic Peak to the right. As the clock ran out, we heard word that the teams would descend back to base camp. Mike was the first to test his skills at glissading (sliding down the hill to increase the speed of descending). Soon everyone was glissading. The teams returned, and we all continued back to Glacier Meadow Camp. Upon arrival Bravo struck camp quickly and packed up. We decided not to stay at Elk Lake as our permit indicated, electing instead for the 7 mile return to Lewis Meadow (our favorite camp) and a shorter hike out, making a finish on Thursday a possibility. The descent of the Hoh River Trail works other muscle groups and toes. Tight shoes and controlled speed proved important. We reached Lewis Meadow in misty fog at about 8pm and settled into camp. After a quick meal and campfire we hit the rack.

Thursday, July 21st ALPHA CREW Hiked the 12 miles back out to 5 Mile Island, with a long lunch/rest break at Lewis Meadow. This was a long day for the crew, but spirits were high and we enjoyed the scenery. We also saw a red salmon swimming in the river. Some wanted to try to catch it, but we decided against it as we didn't know the laws on salmon fishing. BRAVO CREW A heavy mist and rain greeted us as we packed soggy wet and heavy gear into packs for a final push to the Visitor Center. We departed at 7am for the 11 mile hitch to the parking lot. Boy was that a hard hike. We set a strong pace and gutted it out through some heavy rain and mist. We relayed our exploits to Matt at the Olympic Ranger Station as we passed and pushed on. Just prior to Tom's Creek, the sky cleared and the sun began to warm the trail. We reached the parking lot in full sun, made arrangements to stay in the camping area, and moved quickly to set camp and dry our gear. As soon as we had gear dry and stowed we jumped into cars with all of our laundry and some cash for a meal in Forks. Pacific Pizza's Twilight Special was the restaurant of choice. The crew took over the small laundry and a few headed to the Tread Way Grocery for provisions (including toothpaste...AHHHH!) While in the laundromat, we met Carman, who serves as Executive Secretary to the Tribal Council of the Quileute Nation in nearby La Push. After greetings and inductions, she advised us that the beach camp we were intending to camp at was a rock beach, and the only sand beach for miles was on the Quileute Reservation. Carman, and her husband James, have worked in various capacities with the Quileute Nation and have a vested interest in its community. Their son, Rio, is the Cultural Instructor at the Quileute Tribal School, which has a private beachfront for their students. Carman offered this private beach to us for the night. After all the clothes were clean and we had our fill of food, we returned to camp for a great, cool and dry night of sleep.

Friday, July 22nd ALPHA CREW Hiked out early to finish the trail and met up with Bravo crew for the drive to the beach. Most of Alpha crew also enjoyed a shower, clean clothes, and pizza! BRAVO CREW I awoke at 3am with a nightmare that someone in Alpha had been injured. I considered waking up Geof or Mohan to hike in with me and check, but after drinking some water and considering my mental state, I elected to return to bed. We woke the crew at 7am and began moving gear into the warm sun to dry as a bull elk navigated its way through our camp. Boots were spread open to dry on a rock with a small snake standing guard. At 9am I walked to the Ranger office and found Tom W (almost did not recognize him because he has lost so much weight) standing by the trailhead map. We moved Alpha crew to our camp and soon were eating breakfast and packing up the vans. We discussed our chance encounter with Carman and all agreed that fate had dealt us a nice hand. We set out for La Push. After finding Carman and James we invited them to join us for campfire. Then we set up camp in the soft sand above the tidal plain among hundreds of bleached trees that had wash up on the beach after being wrecked by avalanches on Mount Olympus and pushed into the Pacific Ocean by the spring snow melt on the Hoh River. The majority of the boys set out to complete the 50 Miler (an additional 8 miles was needed). Later that day, Scott lead the crews to collect firewood for a camp fire, while Henry lead a massive clean up operation on the beach. As the sun settled behind an approaching fog layer held off shore by a breeze, the temperature began to drop. We lit the fire and began to discuss Thorns, Roses and Buds. Carman and James arrived with a gift offering of white salmon smoked over Alder wood. The salmon was sweet and the smokiness not anything like typical smoked food. It was wonderful. James described the commercial underpinnings of the Reservation and Tribe and then told the story of how the Tribe descended from Wolves. He noted that Mount Olympus was the home of the Thunderbird, and the surrounding geography was formed in massive battles between the Whale and the Thunderbird. Our new friends joined us for Scout Vespers and the boys headed for a 10pm taps. I stayed up and chatted with some of the adults, discussing preparations for return to "civilization".

ALL Saturday, July 23rd Harry and I awoke at 4am to ice cold star lit clear skies and headed for the shower. By 7:30am a cool fog had rolled in. The beach was clear of tents, final showers were being wrapped up, and everyone was in clean clothes ready to hit Seattle. As Scoutmaster, I authorized a one time suspension of the Eagle Only coffee rule for a single cup of coffee, since we were in the center of the coffee universe. Most of the boys took advantage of this and enjoyed a cup of Star Bucks from the headwaters of the coffee empire. We drove to the space needle and split into teams to explore the city. As I understand it, most folks visited Pike's Marker (the fish market, where throwing fish is a big deal???) and the REI headquarters, a 4 story sales and demo outfit with every camping gadget you could ever want. By 6pm we were back in cars and heading to SEA-TAC to check in for our red-eye return to ATL.

We learned:

This was NOT a Red Bus Tour (RBT). We talked at length during the trip about how most people live their lives taking vacations and seeing great things, Tower of London, Pyramids at Giza, Great Wall of China by taking a "Red Bus Tour". There is nothing wrong with this, such tours are inexpensive, effective ways to see great things. However, every once in a while, skip the RBT, and plan your own tough trip where you can exercise and challenge your inner explorer skills. You can be assured that you did not take an RBT on this vacation.
People like cake; some like more icing than others. Experiences of individuals varied greatly from person to person. Some may be hungry for more, some may be satisfied with their portions.
Everyone was tested...physically, mentally and spiritually. No one was immune from the challenges of the Hoh River Trail. In the end we all passed these tests and can now say that we are Olympians.
You won't need as much food as you think you will.
Tents start smelling really bad after about the forth day on the trail
You can't believe a lot of what Mr. Rose says. He convinced some that there was a Zaxby's at Glacier Meadow, which to everyone's disappointment turned out to not be true.
Both crews deserve a strong pat on the back for completing this expedition with poise, style, and after 950 man-miles there were no injuries. Great Job !
All agreed this will go down as one of the best trips of their scouting careers.